But I may have to use the alternative means of connecting it via the provided RCA cables and other connections that plug into the back of the stereo. On my headunit, it fits directly onto the factory quadlock. I'm struggling to fully understand what you mean by "I took the speaker wires from the back of the stereo socket and connected it to the RCA output from the stereo." I've tried ground loop isolators, power noise filters and ferrite cores. Full BOSE setup, horrible alternator whine and static. Thanks for taking the time to try and help others. just needed to know that there is an amplifier living in the car and to wire appropriately. No need for inline power filter, no need for ground loop isolators. its obvious this stereo is wired to connect directly to the speakers and not to an amplifier I recommend that you create the proper connections for future stereos to match the type of stereo that they have from the factory. Thus creating a low level output connection to an external amplifier that only accepts low level input. I took the speaker wires from the back of the stereo socket and connected it to the RCA output from the stereo. basically, you can connect amplifiers in series. a high level output will cause issues when going to an external amplifier set up for low level input. The reason for the static, humm, and engine whining, is because the way Xtron wired the stereo to output to all the speakers from the internal amplifer, thus it is a high level output. so the original head unit has low level output to the amplifier. The Bose Stereo, like the one I have, have a amp to all the speakers. the rear speakers go to the amplifier, the the head unit has a low level output for the rear speakers. the wiring plug on this stereo has direct wires to front speakers, a high level output. the Head Unit has amp that operate the front speakers. Non Bose stereo - amplifier run the rear speakers. I'm sharing this so that someone will be able to search and benefit from my time labored work.įor your information regarding the wiring of this stereo into an A3 with Bose and Non Bose. I finally scoured through many forums and found my solution in a wiring diagram. the static, humm, and engine whine was frustrating. I had been racking my brain on this problem on my 2012 A3 with BOSE. I will try to put a ground loop isolator filter on the power input of the HU as last resort ! This seems to show up that the Android HU is not well built. It has no relation with reving the engine strangely, it seems that when the alternator gives 14V the audio volume raises. When going uphill for example the volume raises about 25% then drops if I take my foot of the pedal. To be more precise, when there is load on the alternator. Do the output volume change when your engine is on load ? The power circuit is not well build nor isolated. To me the big problem resides in the amplifier power circuit on these cheap Android HU. It is only because the gain has been lowered, so are the signal parasites. This tells me that the ground loop isolator doesn't fix the problem. If you really try you can still here the problem with the engine stopped but it's very very faint. It's purpose it to pick the audio signal when connecting a Subwoofer or amplifier. It has also a gain amplifier that in our case reduces too much the volume. It is said to break the ground loop problem. It is okay when cruising on motorway, but not loud enough with windows open etc. I tried to go to the factory menu with "126" code and set audio outputs all to max, and set amplifier to 0db max also. Even with the gain set at maximum on the SNI-35, now the audio is not loud enough. It solves the problem but there is a catch. Well I had to solder some RCA connector to it which is a pain. I've installed two ground loop isolators PAC SNI-35. I've got some news to fix a bit the problem.
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